| Queen of Sheba |
| Megan Knoedler |
Tucked just a block back from West Franklin Street, the Queen of Sheba awaits. Like her namesake, she is laden with vibrant, rich spices imported from Ethiopia and charms all who come to know her. The real queen, however, is the woman inside – brave, confident, and wholeheartedly carrying the entire operation on her shoulders.
Opening only three and a half years ago, the Queen of Sheba has been serving authentic Ethiopian dishes to the myriad of customers visiting the simple restaurant in Chapel Hill. Christian and Muslim folklore and beliefs hold the Queen of Sheba as a wise resourceful woman, laden with rich spices and gold, who came to challenge King Solomon and test his knowledge. Traditionally she is from the lands of Ethiopia, a black woman of equal power, wealth and knowledge. Today, this strength and determination is found in the restaurant's owner, chef, manager, and server – Friesha Genet Dabei.
Born and raised in Ethiopia, Dabei got her chance to travel when she received her passport from the communist government at the age of 22. After traveling through Athens, Washington, California, and New York City, she settled Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Disillusioned by corporate America, Dabei was inspired to open a restaurant of her own.
"Cooking is my love - it's my passion. When people eat and admire it, I appreciate it," Dabei said. "Everything is fresh and cooked daily – I cook it myself."
Renting a small shack in Durham, Dabei began cooking homemade specialties, and handing them through the window to her walkup customers. Dabei soon expanded this business to a full restaurant, the Blue Nile, which she ran for 10 years. As time passes, circumstances change and Dabei returned to her first North Carolina home in Chapel Hill with renewed energy to begin again. What her hard work and effort produced is a name and reputation for the best quality, truly authentic Ethiopian restaurant: Queen of Sheba.
"If anyone wants to do anything, they can have no excuse," Dabei said. "Anger makes you strong."
While she has built her success with her own determination and elbow grease, she has gained support along the way. One friend, Todd, volunteered to help manage her restaurant for two months while she cooked in the back. Two young customers, Meredith Weiss and Melissa Siebert, renovated the restaurant including the tile floors and tabletops. A carpet salesman made the restaurant's curtains, and countless others have chipped in to help Dabei make her restaurant a success. With the help of the community, Dabei was able to open her doors to the public with a restaurant that compliments the colorful flavor of her food.
Tile entryways and table tops, colorful woven bowls on the walls and atop the tables, and musical instruments from Ethiopia decorate the modest-sized dining room. A covered front porch allows for quiet nights lit by lanterns, and pottery and bright throw pillows fill the corners of the restaurant. The effect is simple and vibrant, a functional reflection of traditional Ethiopia.
"The atmosphere is very authentic," Marissa Heyl, a junior at UNC-CH said. "The whole dinner is a celebration of the culture and it gives us insight into Ethiopia. The decorations in the restaurant show that music is a big part of life – the different instruments and bright fabrics throughout the restaurant are all very intriguing."
Queen of Sheba draws many of her customers from the School of Public Health - whom Dabei calls her "die-hard customers and biggest supporters" - while other regulars are staunch fans of the organic and exotic foods provided by stores such as Well Springs.
One of the most significant attributes of Sheba's menu is the authentic taste originating from the traditional recipes and cooking techniques. "I didn't change anything to compromise my recipes," Dabei said. "All my ingredients are from Ethiopia. Sometimes you can't even get these tastes in the cities in Ethiopia anymore."
"Its an exploration of the senses," Jason M. Coggins, a first time visitor, said after his meal. "The communal dinning experience was enlightening and enjoyable. The lamb and shifinfin was what I liked best."
Americans like having their own plate. Their own entrée, their own meal. Not so at Queen of Sheba's. Communal dining at its finest; no matter what each person at your table orders, it is all served dispersed on a large, round crepe-like bread called injera. Served with baskets of the same bread, customers grab bites of their entrees, bread in hand, from the center basket. The exotic spices and flavorful meats compliment the spongy texture of the bread.
"It is appealing on a very basic level because you eat with your hands and the bread," Kathy Cho, currently earning her MA in Journalism, said. "It's messy, and I think that makes it fun."
"I came here expecting something new and I wasn't disappointed," David Lorimer said, on his first dining experience. "I have never used bread to grasp food before. I definitely welcome the dining adventure, but would only bring close friends to eat here."
A woman of spirit and strength, Dabei admits she may not remain in Chapel Hill. "I think I would move if I had the opportunity," Dabei said. "I have had offers to come to Raleigh, Cary, or Charlotte – especially Raleigh. Asheville even had me come visit."
The Queen of Sheba is located on 115 North Graham Street in Chapel Hill and serves lunch and dinner every day except Monday.
Megan Knoedler is a senior Journalism and Mass Communication major at UNC-CH. She can be contacted at megkn@email.unc.edu.
Patchwork © 2005 at UNC-CH
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